Brussels: A City of Mussels, Beer and the Manneken Pis - Further Adventures with the SSO Tour of Europe

The three hour bus ride to Brussels went by in a flash and before I could enjoy Monserrat Caballe's unexplainable, unwritten and unending B natural at the end of the greatest of all Metropolitan Opera live-broadcasts from '72, Verdi's opera, Don Carlos, we were pulling into Brussels, the historic capital of Belgium. In Belgium the architecture is neo-classical, the tri-colored flag soars over the palace, infinite varieties of Belgium chocolates and beer are sold on every street corner, pots of delicious mussels with a side of frites can be found in almost every restaurant and the trees are manicured to the perfection of Versailles - it is like France, only better. 

The afternoon of arrival was spent exploring this gothic wonderland who's "Grande Place," is at the heart of all non-political activities in Brussels. It is where everyone comes to be seen, meet up with friends, enjoy an espresso and soak up the good life. This weekend the three day international Jazz festival serenaded tourists and locals alike with music resonating off of every corner of the square, including the towering gothic Hotel de Ville, the endless rows of outdoor restaurants, and every beloved chocolate shop known to man. And just a few steps away, peeing with pride before all the nations on earth without an ounce of shame, stood the famous Manneken Pis. Though slightly silly as a town mascot, its light-hearted celebration of public urination perfectly captures the spirit of the laid-back, happy-go-lucky Belgians who are no more self-conscious then this fun little guy, and yet still carry about them an undeniable air of sophistication.

The evening was capped off by an updated and feisty performance of Mozart's third Da Ponte opera, Cosi fan Tutte (aka: They All do It) at La Monnaie, the gorgeously plush opera house in Brussels. As operas go it is truly irreverent and even down-right shocking in its attitudes towards sexual misconduct, the game of love and sexual impropriety. It is in some ways the comic foil to Leclos's much darker, Les Laisons Dangereuse. That Mozart can spin the tragedy of two infidelities into a comic masterpiece that continues to vex critics, directors and audiences alike, is proof of his artistic genius. This updated, sleek version from Spain was conducted with buoyancy and aplomb by Seattle Symphony's Music Director, Ludovic Morlot. And if everything was not completely seamless in the pit, part of which is due to the director's specific orders to the singers to "not to watch the conductor!" Ludo himself urged everyone at the post-performance reception to return over the next five years to La Monnaie to hear his steady transformation of this orchestra into one of the world's finest.

The remaining days were spent in further exploration of this interesting city, walking up to the newer section of Brussels with its grand boulevards, neo-classical architecture, pretty parks, magical churches, bracing vistas and enchanting neighborhoods, perfect for shopping and/or enjoying one of those delicious Belgium beers while you watch rolls of crowds stroll by. Standing at the highest peak gives one a clear view of just how vast Brussels has become. Like many European cities it is much larger than its quaint "Old City Center," and on further exploration reveals that it is very much a city within a city. But two days can only scratch the surface of such a town who's history is as rich as her chocolates, who's mischievous little mascot is a baby boy peeing and where cuisine and beer come close to a national religion, all of which makes Brussels - a romantic city, full of fabulous sight-seeing and one swell stop on your next European adventure.

Meeting Up with The Seattle Symphony Tour in Amsterdam

Rijksmuseum

This has been a very special week indeed. Before heading off to Europe back in October of 2012 to explore the possibilities of Benedictine Monasticism in France, I worked for the Seattle Symphony as their Special Events Manager. Part of my role was to design a 10 day tour to Europe for board members and donors, including great performances of classical music, museum tours and sight seeing. The endeavor was something I enjoyed immensely, and though I was unable to see it to its completion, I was able to help in the beginning stages of the design process, concocting a 10 day tour that would begin in London, move to Amsterdam and conclude in Brussels with a perfect performance of Mozart's stunning opera, "Cosi fan Tutte," conducted by Seattle Symphony's own Music Director, Ludovic Morlot.

You can imagine my excitement when I learned that I could join this tour for several events during their stay in Amsterdam and Brussels. And when I met up with the group of 18 for the first time in front of the newly reopened Rijksmusem, it most certainly felt like a kind of joyful homecoming. That our actual museum tour was so unforgettable simply added to the overall experience.  Our very knowledgeable guide ushered us through the monumental-sized museum, passed hoards of crowds in order to get us up close and personal with famous works by Vermeer, Rembrandt and many other world-renowned artists. The very sight of this many masterpieces was enough to bring a number of us to tears. 

Afterwards we indulged in the Vincent Van Gogh Museum, delving deep into his life and works, and discovering the man behind the thick paint, infamous sunflowers and tragic demise. Thanks to our guide the story of the art and its artist came alive for us all. 

Eel Sandwich

The balance of my day was spent enjoying time with my favorite Dutch friends, eating unforgettable meals of smoked eel and Dutch pastries, touring charming Dutch villages, one of which was celebrating the printing release of its new hymnal and had turned the town into one big festive gathering, culminating in a sung mass inside the church, where they were serving beer, cake and coffee! (Why can't mass be like that everywhere!?) And of course my driving tour included endless fields of quintessential "quiet" Dutch scenery straight out of a "golden age" era painting with munching cattle, galloping geese and fat, plushy lambs.

Street Band

 Though I was not able to join the group for the brilliant performances at the Concertgebouw, hearing about them, in particular, the concert performance of Wagner's romantic opera, The Flying Dutchman, featuring the Concertgebouw Orchestra, was almost as good as being there. Seeing the thrilled expressions on everyone's face as they described the performance was proof of its greatness! Unfortunately our time in Amsterdam came to a close too soon, but while boarding the bus for Brussels, I made a promise to myself to return again because Amsterdam is - a romantic city, full of fabulous sight-seeing and is one unforgettable stop on your travel adventure!

SSO Tour Group 

Van Gogh Sunflowers

A Trip to Bonn and a Little Lesson in German History after WWII

Last week Thomas and I drove to the city of Bonn, a beautiful Baroque city which boasts a magnificent soaring cathedral, the home of music's most important and revolutionary composer, Ludwig von Beethoven, and was once the capital of Western Germany after the 2nd World War from 1949-1990.

As you might recall, after WWII the then four Global Superpowers - England, France, Russia and the US - carved up Germany into four sections, believing a divided Germany would prevent her from ever rising to power again. Thus arose a Germany ordered by an open, free-democracy, led by the Allied Forces in the West, and by a Soviet dictated Communism in the East. In addition the German capital of Berlin, which was seen by all Powers as too valuable to surrender to just one Power, was also divided up into four equal quadrants, with the East operating as a Soviet communist bloc and the West as a free and open Democracy, occupied by the Allied Forces of France, England and the US.

It should be noted that in May of '49 the three western forces came together to form the German Federal Republic while the Soviets responded by naming their territory, ironically, the German Democratic Republic, even though there was absolutely nothing Democratic about it!

In order to facilitate government and economics in the West, the German Parliament decided to move Germany's  then capital of Berlin to the rather unpolitical Baroque city of Bonn. It so happens that the newly elected Chancellor Konrad Adenauer just happened to live in a nearby village, which might help explain the unusual selection of Bonn, but only just slightly...

Interestingly, under Chancellor Adenauer's watch, and with the aid of his chief economist Ludwig Erhard, the decimated German economy made a spectacular recovery and within a decade of the end of WWII could boast an Annual Growth Rate of 8%, ranking it as the most prosperous European nation. And thus Bonn grew from a sleepy, unimportant kingdom in the industrial Ruhr region of Germany into the seat of German politics, economics, media and business, framed within  elegant baroque palaces, stunning churches and the Romantic Rhein River running along side.

The highlight of this interesting journey, which included many wonderful museums such as Beethoven House and the Modern Art Gallery, has to be the exhibition at the German Historical Museum entitled, "The USA in Germany after WWII" and then getting the chance to meet and talk with the Head of the Museum itself.  The the system of government funding is different from that in the US, arts organizations still face many similar challenges regarding attracting new and younger audiences, maintaining relevance, effectively incorporating technology and of course, how to create partnerships with other organizations. All important questions that every Art Group must continuously ask itself.

Our rustic lodgings were outside of Bonn at a Cusanuswerk retreat house where we met, ate and prayed with some new friends who had come from all over Germany to study or prepare for upcoming exams.

Our tour to Bonn ended with a a special visit to the pilgrimage church of the Heilige Stiege in Kreuzberg, which features an ornate Baroque Staircase designed by Balthasar Neumann, one of Baroque's most influential and famous architects. Now the Sisters of Charity live there and help run a language institute for foreign seminarians learning German. 

My first trip to Bonn was definitely memorable, if a little grey due to weather, but I would recommend it to anyone as a great day trip when you are in the region. Whether it is art, history, politics, food or culture that excites you, all of these and more are waiting to be discovered in Bonn. It's a romantic city, fabulous sight-seeing and one unforgettable stop on your travel adventure!

Thomas Jaschke's Pre-Birthday Celebration in Detmold

So Thomas's Birthday is on May 23rd but we decided to celebrate this last Sunday with a huge Latin Mass at the Paderborn Dom, which included magnificent performances of several Bach Cantatas, as part of the Detmold Bach Festival.

For lunch I took him to the elegant Detmolder Hof for a bountiful lunch of perfectly prepared Schnitzel and fresh White Asparagus, a perennial favorite in Europe, especially when they are smothered in rich and delicious Hollandaise Sauce! And nothing tastes better with such a meal than a Riesling full of minerals and sparkle. Cheers!!



After our meal we strolled through the mediaeval town of Detmold, a darling town built around several little canals like Venice, and watched the black swans putter about.  Then we made our way to the Laandestheater for a fantastic performance of Wagner's opera, Tristan und Isolde.


Our celebration ended with a glass of champagne, Berlioz blaring on the car stereo and a beautiful night sky to sing us to sleep. All in all, it was a great beginning to a no doubt great birthday!





Happy Birthday Thomas!

 Detmold, Germany

The Shape of Richard Wagner's Tristan und Isolde

Attending a recent performance of Richard Wagner's opera, Tristan und Isolde at the Laandestheater in Detmold, reminded me that Wagner's Tristan is truly a revolutionary opera. The 20th century is born in the opening, unresolvable "Tristan" chord, and over its gestation of 4 hours a new type of art is born which weds music, philosophy, myth and psychology into a love story of shattering dimensions. From Tristan will also emerge a blazing new generation of art, psychology, music, ideas and culture which still resonates today.


Never before had a libretto so explored the hidden depths of the human psyche, its unexplained wounds, its dark desires, as well as man's inner conflict of eros and thanatos, "love and death." But the text is only the foundation upon which Wagner's music can take shape through his seemingly endless chromatic modulations, that reach out without ever finding their longed-for resolution, and his brilliant use of leitmotifs to reveal and conceal his character's inner-most thoughts and longings.


I don't believe that Wagner was writing an opera about forbidden love, he was writing an opera about the causes that leads a man to it. The famous love-potion, liebestrank, is merely a trope to set the game in motion so that Wagner can slowly unveil what lies at the heart of every man and woman - the longing for the annihilation from suffering through either love or death. Tristan und Isolde is merely the frame...life is merely the frame...our relationships are merely the frame about this dark and startling question at the heart of all mankind.

For me Wagner's ultimate response only makes sense within the realm of his opera, though countless others have no doubt tried to realize it in life itself. The glaring fact is that, were we to live that way, for our darkest impulses and desires, society would shatter under the weight of such utter egotistical selfishness. Its like trying to live your therapy sessions outside of the doctors office. We go to a doctor to find healing, we go to the opera to experience catharsis. If we don't leave the doctors office, or if we never leave the opera house, we can't successfully live out our lives. It might appear beautiful, fascinating and even haunting to remain in the veiled world of night, but without the light of day our healing is illusion and only illness remains. Opera, like Therapy, works best when used to assist us in our lives and not as a substitute for them.

And yet I will continue to enjoy performances of Tristan und Isolde so I can sail on waves of music that seem to endlessly yearn, explore the lives of all these multi-dimensional characters and of course, continue the encounter with my own deeply mysterious  psychology and the question of its motivations. But as I watch Isolde sing her final aria of transfiguration over the lifeless body of her beloved Tristan, her Liebestod, I shall always keep before my eye the vast canvas by Titian that Wagner saw during one of his visits to Venice. As he stepped into the Frari Church and beheld a beautiful woman engulfed in a swirling red gown, eyes and hands raised in ecstasy while men below stared up at her in wonder and awe as heaven received her, Wagner is to have said, "That is my Isolde." I wonder if he truly understood the blessed mystery behind his own words?

In Search of the the "How" of Music

Have you ever asked yourself, "How or Why does a certain piece of music make me feel something?" Recently I was watching a video of a young Filipino boy singing "Dance with My Father," an emotional ballad by the late R&B artist Luther Vandross. Several moments into the song my cheeks were wet with tears and I could offer no better explanation then to say that this young boy's performance and voice had touched me. And this video's excess of upwards over a million views proves that others tend to agree. Opera can also bring us to tears, such as in this painful duet of a mother and son's final farewell, from Handel's Julius Ceasar, performed by David Daniel's and Stephanie Blythe.

Doubtless humans have a natural response to music in minor keys, and skilled musicians have exploited this penchant over the centuries whenever musical dramatics sought to express the sorrow over the Father's rejection of his favorite daughter, the exile of a hero from his beloved homeland, the lover's agonizing separation by the cruelties of fate, or the heroine's tragic death at the hands of a guilty lover. And though these scenes sound too grand for our ordinary world, they in fact grow out of the lamentable reality that man cannot escape from suffering in this lifetime.  Think about the stories we hear on NPR of refugees fleeing their homelands, or reports of a murder done by the hands of a jealous lover, or our own agony when those we love most are cruelly taken away from us before their time. When such horrors happen it would seem that no words can express our deep sorrow. It is then that we must sing. And Opera and Classical Music have provided us an array of arias that ache and a surplus of symphonic movements that sob. But something unique to music is its transformational element from a series of notes into a moving and powerful performance when offered by a gifted performer. In some cases the musical or artistic gift seems to transcend the limits of talent, knocking so loudly upon the door of heaven that one could almost begin to believe that divinity does indeed dwell upon the earth, so overwhelmed are we by their artistry.

One voice that stands out for most opera goers is that of soprano Maria Callas who's own personal sorrows and sufferings sadly rivaled many of the operatic characters she embodied so famously on the operatic stage.  Perhaps it was this personal suffering that helped her inhabit her characters at such a palpable level of flesh and bone, perfectly captured here (at 5:16) in Violetta's emotional farewell to Alfredo and all her happiness, from Act II of Verdi's opera, La Traviata, "The Fallen One." And yet what is interesting to me and which flows from my original question is the general agreement that Callas's voice is not considered by many listeners to be a typically beautiful voice. I even think she herself is quoted in an interview somewhere making this very statement. But her's was definitely a defining and decisive voice for audience goers. You either loved her or hated her, believe she embodied the music or clipped its wings, accepted her for everything she gave or renounced her for everything that she was not. But such are our responses to most things in life that stand in contrast to the ordinary. Of course there will always be a place for beauty as well, cue Kiri Te Kanawa.

Of course Opera, and Classical Music to some level, are genres outside of the modern mainstream itself. Granted most people are familiar with the tunes from Beethoven's "9th Symphony" and Mozart's Overture to The Marriage of Figaro, but the tropes, the tricks, and the language of the music itself are not something that the general public, to my awareness, is schooled in as they are with the modern Pop/Rock/Jazz/Soul and R&B idioms. And sitting down to 5 minutes of music in one's own language, in a style inescapably echoing throughout every corner of our lives including grocery stores, shopping malls, doctors offices and most international calling trees, is a far easier exercise then sitting for 2 minutes to endure an aria in a foreign language, clueless of its context and in a vocal style that has been politely referred to as "the Olympics of Singing." Now I am not here to draw lines in the sand between the arts but make a rather common observation that familiarity with a musical genre and it's particular "musical gestures" including musical forms, arrangements and even awareness as to how a voice can and is supposed to sound within the context of opera might go a long way towards building a bridge between listeners of popular music and opera. I mean in the end are we not all simply searching for the means to express how we feel, whether enraged in fury, embittered by brokenness or engulfed in the flames of passion?

But just as in popular music when one is at a loss to adequetely explain how this singer's voice or that musician's performance touches the caverns of our hearts, so too are we at a loss for words when an artist registers seismic levels of joy for us. Cecilia Bartoli is just such a singer that fans and critics are still unable to come to full agreement over. But like many great artists, whether we speak the language, understand the context or know anything about technique, it is the music that in the end will and shall have the last word.

The Game of Gardening-Frühling (Springtime) in Germany

So can I ask if Spring has sprung yet in your neck of the woods? It would appear that Mother Nature has been on some kind of bizarre bender this year suffering from an extended Winter, turning into a shocking day of bi-polar sunshine, before rapidly hardening back into a misery of winter bringing weeks of leaden skies, icy rain and even occasional snow flurries.  Clearly Mother Nature has had some issues. Yet despite all this unusual weather, it appears that Spring has finally arrived in Germany, though there are still doubts among the farmers who swear by the Eisheilige or "The Ice Saints, the period from May 12 to May 15 which brings with it a final spell of colder weather and nightly frosts!

But the whirr of a dozen lawnmowers and the chorale of metallic clicking garden shears is proof enough that the folks here on Frankensteiner Strasse believe Spring has officially arrived. Just last week the first leaves began to appear on the trees and seemingly overnight the tulips erupted through the earth to display their jolly red and yellow blooms. And stepping outside to the backyard in the early morning you can hear dozens of birds serenading the brightening sky and catch glimpses of neighbors as they shuffle around in their yards, spreading dirt, emptying the compost, cutting back this and digging up that. Sometimes I don't know if people are actually working in the yards or simply delighting in the rejuvenation of Spring and the beauty of God's handiwork.

But as anyone knows who lives in a neighborhood where the yards connect and look out on one another's, beneath the reveling and hard work a silent game is afoot. No doubt Herr Geiger is aware that Herr Müller planted a new fruit tree this year, and surely Frau Braun sees that Frau Negel's blossoms are so much bigger than hers. Oh and don't get me started on the LAWNS! Who knew that a patch of charming green grass could be such a nuisance or a cause for such contention. My own first attempt to mow the lawn this year, something I do happily and with pleasure to keep things looking orderly, was like pushing an unyielding mule up the steep steps of the Grand Canyon. And not just because the grass had grown up inordinately high since it's last cutting in October but rather due to the stealthy sub-terennial attack of mounds of moss that had snuggled themselves in over the winter months. Suddenly mowing the lovely lawn was like mowing row after row after row of black diamond mini-moguls. But such is not the case at Herr Geiger's, Herr Müllers's, Frau Braun's or Frau Negel's! My mind turned to conspiracy theories as I surveyed our garden, which is nicely landscaped with a pool-sized arena of grass in the center, but in comparing it to the well-trimmed borders and neat little planter boxes of our neighbors, made me acutely aware that the fault most likely lay in the work, or rather, the lack of work of our own hands. 

Yet a whole summer now stretches out before us and with it months of opportunities to bring our lawn back from the brink of mutating into the Mystery of Mossy Mountain. And fortunately the emerging blossoms of grape hyacinth, dog woods, snow bells and soon black tulips, will no doubt go a long way to turn this simple garden once again into a version of Paradise. And yet each time I set out to cut the moss...I mean grass, I will look over at our neighbor's yard and contemplate what would happen were I to throw just a little mound of moss his way? I'm not being malicious, I just want to keep the game interesting...Inch by inch and row by row!

May 1st & the Return of Bike Season in Germany

Yesterday marked the 1st of May and in Germany that means everyone gets a mid-week holiday to commemorate "Tag der Arbeit" or Labor Day. Some parts of Germany and Austria also raise Maypoles with long streams of silken ribbons to dance around while enjoying the delicious beer that is at the heart of Tradition for all German speaking countries. Here in Gütersloh though Thomas and I chose to mark the occasion with our first all-day bike ride of the season.

This year we chose the beautiful and elegant town of Detmold, some 40 kilometers to the east, which boasts a magnificent Residenzschloss or "Residents Palace" surrounded by water on three sides; the fantastic Freilichtmuseum of German Culture; one of Germany's finest Music Universities; as well as some of the loveliest 18th and 19th century style homes throughout Germany.

All of this is surrounded by the grand Teutoburg Forest in which you can find
the mammoth Hermannsdenkmal or "Herman's Monument," Germany's equivalent of the Statue of Liberty, which commemorates the Germanic people's repulsion and defeat over the Romans in 9 AD. Though forgotten after his murder in 21 AD after trying to forge an alliance with the Southern Germanic tribes, Hermann was rediscovered and eulogized in art and poetry by the Romantic movement, who later saw him as a great liberator and the first man to envision a unified Germany.

But our bike journey, which began on a sun-drenched morning, only an hour later than intended, (it is a holiday after all), took us through wooded areas and along quiet streams, near giant brown crops and grassy filled meadows speckled with munching sheep and cattle, and through the occasional small town  which always contains a Turkish Donor Kebab Shop.

But the highlight for us was the three tiered, bright yellow, baroque water palace that just happened to show up in the middle of our ride. Once the possession of a rich count, it is now used as apartments for those lucky enough to secure one. It is three golden Baroque suns rising proudly out of the waters.

After three hours and a little stop near the Hermannnsdenkmal to enjoy our homemade sandwiches, we coasted into wunderschönes Detmold and made our way to the Altestadt or the "Old City Center," which are the town center and heart for most European towns, usually containing a plaza, a church and the ever important cake and ice cream shop. Something I enjoy about German towns, and of which I wish the US had more, are the long outdoor Fußgangzones or "Footpath Zones" which keep the shops and the shoppers out-of-doors and on wide, attractive, car free boulevards. Somehow you don't feel small and trapped in a disconnected shopping mall but rather like you are part of your community with one heartbeat.

At the Altestadt we found a large stage with Union Members entertaining audiences with silly stand-up comedy, as well as Union organized booths scattered about the plaza, along with several trucks pouring Detmold beer and offering plenty of delicious Würst. This was Labor Day after all, and though there wasn't a Maypole in sight, there was still plenty of celebrating to be had. After we watched the festivities for a time, Thomas and I rode off to explore Detmold's sights, including an extended ride to a nearby town called Heilige Kirche which is almost completely dedicated to bikes and includes plenty of sheep farms right in the middle of town. Though modern in most respects, one can still sense the medieval world underneath it all.

Riding through Detmold I was struck by the beauty and order of everything. There were carved waterways cutting through the town, immense mansions with decorative surfaces and elegant statuary, tree lined paths, romantic parks and lots of families with children. And yet it never felt stuffy or pretentious, it just felt relaxed and happy, comfortable with its beauty and completely joyful to be sharing it with anyone who happened to live there or perhaps was simply passing through. It is the type of atmosphere that is nearly impossible to find in a large city and causes some of us to long for a return to village life when we get to taste it.

Eventually we found two seats at the Schokolade Café and Konditerei (Pastry Shop) to  indulge our tastebuds in homemade Apple Pie, Pear Mousse Cake and tall glasses of coffee macchiatos, a veritable trinity of temptation of which "no" was simply not an answer. But by 5pm it was time to bid goodbye to this village oasis and make our way back to Gütersloh. And yet as the sunlight waned and the emerging twilight began to cast long shadows around us, our wooded ride home took on an almost fantasy-like quality as the newly emerged leaves, light green in color and so delicately suspended in the air, seemed to float around us, silhouetted as they were against the dark pine trees. It made one acutely aware of the sources for the Grimm's Fairytales as well as the Romantic music of Schumann, Schubert and Beethoven. You could almost see the fairies dancing in circles to the strains of piano music from one of these Romantic giants.

85 kilometers later, and a little detour in Verl for some of the best pizza I have ever tasted in Germany, we were back home at Frankensteiner Strasse 23 at last. This May Day was truly one of my most memorable experiences and one which I shall recall always. It also captures, like a perfect snapshot, the ideal experience one can have while traveling, be it in Germany or anywhere. All that is required is a bike, a map and a good friend with whom to enjoy the journey! Happy May Day to everyone!